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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.